Is there another way i could prevent piston melt? Would changing to forged pistons be enough? How much boost do you think i would be able to put into the engine? Do i need bigger fuel injectors? Could this be upgraded at a later date?
Anything else you all think i should look into please mention. Many thanks in advance. I have elsaWin but im new to it so could someone point me to where i should be looking for the oil piston cooling jet mounts?
Joined Mar 16, Location Newtownards, N. On the underside of the block, pointing up the insides of the cylinders. Useless tho getting the jets if the block isn't drilled and tapped for them Thanks dpm. No, not gonna buy any jets til i find out. Dont know if anyone read the thread on GTD about the rabbit 1. Another thing i was thinking about: Isnt it true that raising boost slightly would lower egt's?
I shouldn't let that put you off the project, providing you go heavy on the intercooler, suitable size on the turbo and not so much the pressure of the boost but the fact that max boost is in the turbos efficiency range so the air coming out is cool you should keep your egt's down. Make sure you don't overfuel should also help. Tons of turbo conversions were done in the 80's and 90's always on na non cooled engines, all okay.
But naturally they didn't 'push' things, were looking at maybe 7psi no intercooler. You should be fine with a good intercooler, setup and oil cooler to go to good tdi levels, but if you want a hp race engine I'd start with a different block.
Also im thinking max 8psi at first. Is there a way to work out how my engine would work with a vnt15 and the above IC? Aidan Veteran Member. Somewhere on vwdiesel. I guess this doesn't apply to the latest PD engines though. The oil injectors are post-machining component additions to the block casting and can therefore be installed to a common block or not, by plugging the respective supply gallery.
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Or is it just a case of 'why not? Cheaper to build becuase you don't need a turbo, which is an expensive part as they are made to very fine tolerances. Normally aspirated diesels should be more economical as well. Not that many mainstream manufacturers still do them for passenger cars these days as every a small turbo makes a massive difference to performance and driveability without sacrificing economy too much.
Exactly - the first point makes sense but when no-one is buying the things, is there any point? It's always amused me to see the 'i' in 'TDi'. No doubt copying the fuel-injected petrol equivalent 'i' badging, but forgetting that diesel engines had been fuel-injected long before that! The "i" means intercooled not injection. Is that still true for 'SDi' - as in the thread title? I never drove a 2. The hp one was no smoother, just had more grunt. The smoothest and most astounding Diesel I drove was in a worn out Caddy van I borrowed whilst my Multivan was being serviced.
That engine had been round the clock a few times and had never been cared for; this van was a commercial dealers hack. However the engine was phenomenal, smooth and free revving like a good petrol engine. It had the sdi engine in it, a close relative of the Lupo sdi engine. The worst VW Diesel I ever drove had the same type of engine, a , but it was the turbo version fitted in a Transporter.
However you will be pleased to know that the worst Diesel I ever drove was not a VW, it was in one of those awful Chrysler Voyager things. It had a dreadful gearbox as well. That thing made the Multivan seem like a limo. Why did the go to the trouble of shortening the stroke? Probably by reducing the capacity slightly, they were able to get the emissions below the magic figure of I would love to drive one and compare it to its non turbo cousin.
One of the smoothest four stroke bike engines I ever experienced was also a 3 cylinder motor, a Triumph, and that also had balancer shafts. The engine smoothes out once warm and the engine noise is only intrusive on tick over. Pulls 75 — 85 very happily on motorways but definitely lacks the low down grunt that you would get from a turbo and hills need to be thought about. You seem to need to keep the revs above or nothing much happens and that will mean changing down on long hills. Thanks for the replies, sounds like the TDI is the "better" engine as I guess you would expect, but I agree that there is something to be said for simplicity once cars get older We have a 2.
I know what you mean about its engine isnt very smooth, its quite noisey when started up but it does get less noiesy once its warm and above town speeds its quite hard to tell its a diesel. Although ours is remapped and it got a lot smoother after the 'map.
It pulls like a train now though! Well hopefully it being a VW it should last and so should the electrics, in theory anyway.
Its a shame its not really the case and i dont believe VWs are what they are cracked up to be! We have had prroblems with all three of our Vag cars, the one that has only caused one problem an iffy relay is my Arosa TDi.
Id get the TDi, they are quite solid things and the engines and gearboxes are built to last. THey have a hydraulic clutch so unless your really unlucky, but ive not heard of it it avoids the lupos pedal box issues!
Unlike the SDI. Id buy the TDi, it seems a much nicer car to live with, having more kit and more go about its engine. It is a very smooth engine though, and very very refined. I didnt even consider an SDi when i was looking for my diesel.
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